A Slow but Sunny Stretch of the Isle of Man Coast Path
My run around the Isle of Man is taking quite a while. I only travel there now and then for short visits, and each time I do, I seem to be running shorter distances — and getting slower too.
This visit was just a flying trip for the weekend, mainly to visit Anna’s mum. I’d tweaked a muscle in my back a few days beforehand, so running wasn’t really on the agenda — though I packed some running shoes, just in case.
We arrived on Friday afternoon and stayed just down the road from Pat’s house. Saturday morning was spent shopping and chilling, and the evening was much the same: eating plenty of the food Pat had bought during our trip and then relaxing again.
Sunday promised better weather, and with no firm plans, we headed to the Sound to see the seals. Afterwards, I decided I was feeling up for a run along the coast. Anna and Pat were happy to drop me off at Niarbyl, where I finished last time, and then meet me later in Peel. It wouldn’t be a long run, and if all went to plan, they’d have time to enjoy a picnic without waiting too long for me, assuming I didn’t get lost!
Despite some dense hill fog on the tops, the sun was shining at Niarbyl, but there was a stiff, cool breeze as I got changed in the car park. Anna was worried about my back, so we agreed to meet in Glen Maye a couple of miles along, just in case there were any problems.
I kitted up with a lightweight rucksack, a spare layer, my emergency satellite beacon, and a drink, and set off jogging up the long hill out of Niarbyl.
Taking it easy, everything felt good. I turned left at the top and trotted steadily along the tarmac. It felt quite warm now, so I stopped to take off my jacket and have a drink before descending toward Glen Maye.
The signposts — and my GPS route — then directed me off the road and down a narrow track toward the sea. I realised this would take me right down to the beach at Glen Maye, while Anna and Pat were waiting in the car park at the top. I considered sticking to the road to meet them directly, but I didn’t want to miss out on this section of the Coast Path and feel as if I’d ‘cheated’.
So, I followed the track, resigning myself to a long climb up to the car park, followed by another descent back to the coast afterward. Under normal circumstances, I would have sent Anna a text to update her, but with no mobile coverage on the Isle of Man, that wasn’t an option — and I didn’t want her worrying.
At the beach, the only choice was to start climbing. I met Anna and Pat in the car park, two miles into my run — although by now, I’d already covered three miles, thanks to the detour! After saying hello, I headed back down to the coast to continue along the trail. I’d now run four miles but was still only two miles into the planned route.
The path climbed back up onto the cliffs for a pleasant run along winding paths. Choughs swooped and dived in the updrafts, and at one point, a lizard scurried across the path in front of me. Otherwise, it was the usual coastal fare of blustery clifftops, plenty of ups and downs, and twists and turns.
At the top of one climb, I passed a sculpture of a pair of hikers taking a rest, before I enjoyed a lovely descent on a wide, grassy path around the side of a hill.
Another climb brought me to the top of Peel Hill, offering views over Peel, Peel Castle, and the rest of the island. Anna and Pat would be waiting for me in the shadow of the castle by Fenella Beach.
Up until now, I’d barely seen anyone, but Peel Hill was much busier — walkers enjoying the sunshine and even a large group doing some sort of ‘nature-bathing’ yoga session on the grass.
I dropped down into the car park and found Anna and Pat happily sitting in the sun, watching the waves roll onto the beach. I rewarded my run with an almond croissant before we headed back over the foggy hills to the other side of the island.
That was another few miles of the Isle of Man Coast Path ticked off — and a nice seven-mile run in the sunshine.
We spent the rest of the afternoon chilling, had dinner at Pat’s, and then spent the evening packing for an early start the next day.
We were at the airport before 7 a.m., only to find it fogbound. Initially, we were told the flight was boarding, but after queuing for a while, the announcement changed: there was a delay due to fog. That delay soon stretched to “no chance of getting out of here before 5:30 p.m.”
So, I’m writing this from the departure lounge at Ronaldsway Airport. Food and drink options are limited — Costa Coffee or nothing — but at least we’ve been given a voucher. The boards currently show a delay until at least 6 p.m.
We might not make it home today after all.
